HELP & FAQ

MACH Graphite Wax can be applied as part of your regular waxing cycle. Select the correct temperature-specific variant for your conditions. For optimal results, reapply every 6 days of use or whenever the black base begins to show whitening. Alternate with other MACH performance waxes between applications, and use the WAX SELECTOR TOOL to match wax type to snow temperature and humidity for peak performance.

No. A black base may be simply dyed or it may be graphite-infused. While visually identical, only graphite-impregnated bases provide the electrical conductivity and glide benefits of graphite. Check your manufacturer’s specifications to determine your base composition.

1. Base cleaning – Removing dirt and old wax. Best to use KUU Bio-Citron base cleaner K122C or K508W1.

2. Base repair – Fixing gouges with P-Tex. Use K109C Clear or K110C Black drip stick and scrape flat with the KUU Stainless Steel Scraper K116C.

3. Edge sharpening – Side and base edges. KUU offers a variety of bevel guides and tools to sharpen edges.

4. Base structuring – KUU hand brushes or Roto Brushes are perfect for creating and maintain structure. To create or change a structure you may require stone grinding at a reputable ski shop.

5. Waxing – Hot waxing with the appropriate wax for the air temperature and snow conditions is key to a well tuned base. Use the KUU Wax Specialist tool found on our home page to help make a proper wax choice.

6. Scraping and brushing – To finish the wax layer by removing excess wax and cleaning out the structure. Remember to remove wax from the side edge to reveal the sharpened steel edge.

Active or recreational skiers should tune their skis or board every 4-8 days on snow, or sooner if the edges feel dull or bases look white and dry. Regular tuning keeps your equipment gliding at peak performance and reduces the amount of time and effort to tune. Racers or high-performance skiers or riders should tune more often. 

•  Base edge bevel (usually 0.5°–1°) lifts the edge slightly off the snow, reducing catchiness and improving turning control & glide.
• Side edge bevel (typically 1°–3°) determines how sharp the ski feels — more angle (e.g., 3°) = more bite for hard snow or racing.

If you feel your skis equipment sliding unpredictably on firm snow, or you can’t get a good grip on icy slopes, the edges are likely dull. Visually, burrs or nicks indicate the need for sharpening.

Waxing improves glide, protects your investment the base from oxidation and abrasion, and helps repel dirt and water. It also ensures consistent performance across snow conditions.

• All-temperature wax: Good for recreational use, broad range (-6°C to -12°C typical). KUU offers a range of easy-application waxes such as White Lightning spray (K245CF) or paste (K208C) that perform well over a broad air temperature on all bases.
• Temperature-specific waxes: optimized for specific air temps (cold = harder wax, warm = softer). KUU’S MACH+ and MACH 4+ offers waxes for different temperature ranges.

Use the KUU WAX SELECTOR TOOL find what is best for you & the condition to be used in.

1. Clean the base.

2. Melt wax with an iron (set to ~120–130°C for most hydrocarbon waxes).

3. Drip and iron evenly over the base. Make sure to leave a path of 4-6 inches of liquid wax behind a constantly moving iron. Too hot – wax will smoke. Turn the iron down and continue after 3-4 minutes so the iron can cool.

4. Allow the bases to cool for 30–60 minutes. Or, try the Cold Shok™ method of cooling for faster and better results.

5. Scrape off excess with a plastic scraper. Remove any wax from the edges as well.

6. Brush (nylon, then horsehair) to polish the base structure.

Cold Shok™ is the process of cooling a just waxed base faster by exposing it immediately to cold temperatures. When possible, take the skis or board out into the cold and even toss into the snow which will accelerate the cooling of the base and wax and locking the wax molecules into the base material. This will result in better wax absorption and longer lasting wax performance.

Bases that look white, chalky, or dry indicate oxidation and lack of wax. They’ll feel slow or sticky on snow.

• Ski or board vise
• Brake retainers – Rubber bands to hold back alpine ski brake.
• File guide (side and base)
• Diamond stones and files
• Base cleaner and clean rag.
• Waxing iron – No holes like a steam iron.
• Plastic scraper
• Brushes (nylon, brass, horsehair)
• P-Tex candles or repair material
• Paper towels for cleanup

• Over-sharpening: Yes — too frequent filing can remove too much edge material, shortening ski life. Pro Tip – KUU suggests you run an ink marker along the steel edge prior to sharpening. This will indicate you have removed enough steel at the correct angle.
• Over-waxing: Not really, but too much scraping is unnecessary. A good base always benefits from wax saturation. Use gentle pressure with a sharp scraper edge. Allow the scraper do the work of removing the wax. When no more wax is coming off you know you are done. Brushing will remove any wax left in the structure.

Base structure refers to the microscopic pattern in the ski base (created by stone grinding or brushing). It helps channel water and reduces suction — coarser structures for wet/warm snow, finer for cold/dry snow.

With over 54 years of experience, KUU continues to lead in wax innovation, testing, and performance. Our expertise spans World Cups, the Olympics, National Teams, and countless snow conditions worldwide. Taking temperature below the snow surface, CONS – snow is like an insulator or fridge and will not necessarily provide you the actual snow temperature you are on. Secondly weather fronts change overnight or during the day affecting the snow temperature at times rapidly, thus a better wax selection and process is required. Use our newly development Superior WAX TOOL SELECTOR TOOL, which eliminate or reduce wax errors selection, RELAX WE HAVE YOU COVERED.

Extruded bases are the result of polyethylene material being melted and pressed through a die very much like the way spaghetti is made. Sintered bases are made from polyethylene powder that is formed using heat and pressure but not fully melted and skived like cheese slices are produced. (more relevant to the general public?) An easy example is taking a glass fill it with sugar & fill the other glass with large marbles. You will notice the glass with sugar has little spaces between each grain of sugar, not much space for wax to be absorbed. While the glass

with large marbles has much more space between each thus allowing space for wax to absorb. For this reason, sintered bases remain more porous and allow for greater wax absorption than extruded bases which are less porous. Higher-end performance skis and boards use sintered bases due to properties that make them a harder and faster gliding surface.

Sintered bases are much harder or stronger, resisting damage from rocks much better than extruded bases.

A steel file that has been coated with a chromium hardened finish is protected from rust while the aggressiveness of the tooth is relieved. This results in an easier, smoother cutting edge that will last longer when kept clean and stored in a dry environment.

Every wax melts at a different temperature, but typical glide-wax ranges are about 120–140°C (250–285 °F). If the wax isn’t melting easily, turn the heat up a little. If it starts to smoke, your iron is too hot—turn it down. The goal is to melt the wax smoothly without burning it.

KUU’s MACH II Blue and M4 Blue are high-performance synthetic waxes developed with exclusive MACH Technology, engineered specifically for extreme cold conditions. These formulas are unique to KUU and deliver exceptional glide and durability where standard waxes fail in extreme cold weather. Because of their hardness, they require a higher iron temperature, which may produce some
smoke—this is normal.

To apply:
1. Drip the wax evenly along the base.
2. Spread quickly with the iron—avoid lingering in one area to prevent overheating.
3. Scrape immediately after ironing, then brush if needed or polish smooth.

For best cold-condition performance, finish with a fine, polished structure using a cord or clean cloth for texture. Always remove wax from edges, and do not delay scraping—cold waxes harden quickly and become difficult to remove. Scraping just before your event or on the hill is not recommended.

Yes. During initial waxing or when reconditioning your base, extended heat exposure helps the wax penetrate deeply into the base material, improving speed, durability, and protection. Use a warm-temperature wax or base prep wax for best absorption. Keep the iron hot enough to melt the wax smoothly but avoid smoking—reduce heat slightly for longer sessions. A thorough wax impregnation can take 10 minutes or more for optimal results.

Glide wax is used improve speed and durability of glide. Grip & Klister wax are both used to get a grip on the snow and propel yourself forward. Grip wax is for cold, dry, or new snow, while klister handles warm, wet, or icy conditions. Grip wax applies as a solid stick; klister spreads as a sticky gel from a tube—thickness adjusted to match the snow.

Yes—modern lines are fluoro-free (PFAS-free) and race series competitions events increasingly require it have banded the use of Fluro carbons.  fluoro-free products are safer for you and the environment and are fast when applied correctly.

Hot wax (iron) penetrates bases the deepest → longest-lasting speed. Liquids/Sprays/Rub-ons are super quick for a day out or mid-trip refresh, but wear off faster.

Alpine/Snowboard: Competitors wax every time out on the slope. Otherwise, every 2–5 days on snow (or when bases look dry/white). Skate XC: often—every 1–3 sessions. Classic XC: adjust grip zone as conditions change; glide zones like above.

Yes. Factory wax is thin, acts more as a protection than a glide performance. A couple of hot waxes at the start improve glide and base health.

Yes —KUU glide wax works for all disciplines. match the temperature range to the air/snow.

After scraping: 1) brass/steel (light) to open structure, 2) medium nylon to clear wax, 3) horsehair (or fine nylon) to polish. tip-to-tail only.

Hot-scrape: apply warm wax, scrape while still soft to pull out dirt. for stubborn grime, use a dedicated base cleaner KUU BIO-CITRON BASE CLEANER sparingly and let the base dry fully before waxing.

Universal = convenience and good all-round performance. Temp-specific = best speed and durability when you match conditions (great for racers or variable snow kits). Use our newly development Superior WAX TOOL SELECTOR TOOL, which eliminate or reduce wax errors selection, RELAX WE HAVE YOU COVERED.

A 100–120 g bar typically gives ~8–15 hot waxes (board ≈ more wax than skis). Liquids/sprays vary by coat thickness.

Solid glide wax keeps for years if stored cool, dry, and sealed. Liquids/sprays: cap tightly and avoid freezing/overheating, room temperature is ideal.

A common all-mountain setup is ~1° base bevel / 2° side edge. Park/Pow can run friendlier angles; Racers go more aggressive. Keep edges consistent left and right sides, base bevel 1/2° & side bevel at 2° or more.

Clean the area, light-flame or use KUU PRO-FIX Kit (link?)  iron-drip P-Tex into the gouge (use repair string/candles), let cool, level with a steel tool or sharp scraper, then wax. deep core shots may need shop work.

Friction/dry bases. Fix with a thorough clean, use KUU BASE BURN WAX (link?) or then a couple of hot wax cycles, brushing between. prevent with regular waxing.

Never hot-wax the mohair/nylon skin. Use dedicated skin proofers/anti-ice treatments, recommended KUU SKIN COAT – ANTI- ICE & SNOW (link?); keep glue clean and dry; use skin-savers for storage; avoid getting glide wax on the skin area.

At season’s end, apply a warm, soft wax without scraping to seal the base and edges to help prevent edges from rusting. Store cool/dry. In fall, scrape/brush and you’re ready to ride.

Yes—our glide waxes work on sintered and extruded bases. Collect scrapings and dispose in household trash (don’t wash down drains). Choose fluor-free/eco options when possible, and tune in a well-ventilated area.